Thursday, 11 January 2018

Budapest Diaries - Day Two

So, I left it a little longer than intended to continue my account of our trip to Budapest. I became a bit of a couch potato over Christmas (which was bliss) and then I contracted a cold-flu-plague hybrid virus that's only now exorcising itself from my body, so let's leave that there and move swiftly on now that we're back in the swing of things. Here's what we got up to on day two of our Budapest city break.

The Thermal Baths

I am now a firm believer than you cannot visit Budapest without indulging in the local tradition of heading to an outdoor (or underground) thermal bath for a good soak and a steam. On the morning of our second day we headed up to perhaps the most well known, the Szechenyi baths. Built in 1913, the huge but ornate yellow building has some serious Wes Anderson vibes going on and is consequently not hard to locate once you get out of the metro.

Sitting around in warm water with the locals might not be to everyone's taste, but personally I enjoyed it. It was a quite morning without too many tourists around, just a few locals. It was about 16 degrees outdoors so it did feel odd to walk out in a swimming costume, but I wasn't freezing either. We booked online through this website - although you don't strictly have to we wanted to make sure we didn't get caught in a queue if it was busy.

There are pools of different temperatures, with the warmest around 40 degrees centigrade. This was my favourite as it felt like a very hot bath. You can feel your pores opening and muscles relaxing as you step in. There are also medicinal baths that are prescribed by Hungarian doctors, as well as traditional spa treatments available indoors. I can see why the locals think this stuff is good for you because I hadn't felt that relaxed in months.

The Best Donuts in Town

I knew we'd be digging into a traditional chimney cake or two while in Budapest, but another delicious find on our travels was The Box Donut. There are at least two of these bakeries in the city, with a variety of these signature square donuts available. They were bloody delicious, and to be quite honest with you they didn't actually make it into their box before we'd scoffed the lot. I'd highly recommend swinging by. If you fancy trying to get some home with you then they fit snugly (some might say deliberately) inside a small box. I'd recommend the Creme Brulee flavour. The smoothies are good, too.

The Shoes on the Danube

We decided to visit this particular part of the Danube after walking around the impressive parliament buildings. If you know the story of what happened on the Danube during the Second World War then you will also know how deeply moving it is to walk along this riverside memorial. This blog provides some more details on what happened in the city during that time period. The Shoes on the Danube is one of many monuments to Hungary's bloody modern history that you'll find across Budapest. More on that later. 

It was sad to see that even to this day, members of the Jewish faith come to leave flowers, candles and ribbons in the 60 pairs of iron shoes tacked to the river's edge. While many WWII monuments are grand and impressive, the shoes are life-size and hard to spot until you're upon them. I think that gives them even more of an impact.

The Unexpected Journey

We left our second afternoon free since we weren't sure what the weather might do. We walked across from the Shoes on the Danube to a nearby boat stop (covered by our 72hr travel passes) and decided to hitch a ride to Margaret Island. 

The island is a piece of land in between the Buda and Pest sides of the river, and while it is mainly home to a hotel and casino, the vast park grounds are open to the public. An old water tower at the centre of the island keeps the Wes Anderson vibes going, and there's also an old church, rose gardens and a huge singing water fountain. Although each area of Budapest is beautiful in its own way, the island was so unique.

The best way to see the island is to rent a tandem bike or covered bike (the one's that the Chuckle Brothers used to ride?!). For a small fee you can easily cycle around the whole thing in 30-60 minutes, depending on whether or not you stop at one of the many bars/stalls for a drink and a Langos. These deep fried bread snacks really are the stuff of dreams when you're a little worn out from peddling! 

The Ruin Bars

At sunset we made our way back to the Air Bnb to change, and then we headed out to explore the district of trendy 'ruin bars'. These bars began popping up about 15 or so years ago in abandoned apartment buildings, and are probably the coolest places I've ever had a beer in my life.

Szimpla Kert is considered the original ruin bar, with a huge maze of connected rooms on multiple floors all filled with mismatched furniture, street art and festoon lights. The busy, vibrant atmosphere is something to really soak up in this place.

As Szimpla Kert got busier we walked a little way up the street to another huge ruin bar called Instant. This place is made up of smaller club and bar-like rooms, each with a slightly different vibe. We heard some music we liked coming from the basement (a dive bar called Robot) so we wandered down. It terms out that a band called DLRM were playing and the whole underground tunnel vibe made me feel like I was in a Kerrang music video! Check out my dodgy phone pic...

Since we hadn't yet had dinner we took a walk in search of food, which didn't disappoint. We found a street food park called Karavan where we went slightly overboard at all the different food trucks, enjoying fried cheese, goulash and chimney cake, washed down with some locally brewed beer. It was so cheap, insanely tasty and the long picnic benches filled with people created a great atmosphere.

I'd like to say we partied on into the night but if I'm honest with you guys it was about 10pm at this point and we were pooped! We went back to the apartment to bed and I don't regret it one bit - party animal I am not.



  1. I went to Budapest with my boyfriend in the early days of our dating, so I always think of it very fondly. We didn't go to the thermal baths though, which is a shame, but I guess it's also a great reason to go back one day! xx

    Laura // Middle of Adventure

    1. I'll definitely be back at some point!!


© kelly anne rist

This site uses cookies from Google to deliver its services - Click here for information.

Blogger Template Created by pipdig